I've heard culture described like an onion: full of numerous layers, difficult to get to the core and sometimes, stinky to deal with (ok, I added that last part). Culture is complex. Some days I feel as though I’m
fitting into Ugandan culture whereas other days it’s like dancing the wrong
steps in a dance.
Oh wait, that sounds familiar.
The bride and groom! |
My good friends Chris and Kevin (a girl’s name here) are
getting married soon and a few weeks ago they had their kwanjula, the
traditional wedding of the couple. Bride prices are a part of the culture and
the night before the celebration, the groom and his family come to bring the
price that the bride’s family has given. If the bride’s family accepts, then
the party can go on as planned. After the kwanjula, the couple is traditionally
married but law in Uganda requires a church wedding as well.
Lonnah and I waiting in the bride's room, dressed in a gomesi. Check out those shoulders! |
I was honored when Kevin asked me to be a part of her
bridal group for the kwanjula. Well, honored and uncertain. Though I’ve been to
many Ugandan weddings, I had never been around for the kwanjula. The only thing
I knew about the day was when and where to be.
The dearest of friends: Lonnah, Dorothy and I waiting for the festivities to begin |
The bride and her girls were hidden away most of the day
until it was our time to bring out the bride. I think it was then that it was
casually mentioned that we would be dancing our way out.
Dancing? Not so much my “thing”. Dancing in front of a
few hundred people? Oh man. I tried to reassure myself that all I would need to
do was to sway a bit to the beat…while walking…and smiling…and holding up my
gomesi (seen above) so that I wouldn’t fall. No. Biggie.
And then it happened. Every one else started dancing the
same choreographed dance…a dance that I didn’t know. Panic started to rise and
I fumbled, attempting clumsy moves.
Kevin and I |
In that moment, I felt so out of place. Sometimes living
in a different culture is like awkwardly dancing a dance that everyone else
seems to know the moves to besides you. We all want to belong and yet, some
days, living in a different culture makes you feel like you never will. When
everyone else knows the dance of living in this culture and you stand out,
making the wrong steps with language and misunderstanding cultural meaning behind
things. Uganda is home to me but my skin color will always make me stand out, no matter how many years I'm here. There are some
discouraging days when my being a foreigner is just so obvious. It’s a
difficult thing to trudge through. It’s awkward. It’s clumsy.
And, as there are those days, there are many others that
balance that out.
Later on in the night, the bridal party sat on a mat on
the ground while the groom’s family danced and brought gifts to Kevin,
welcoming her into the family. The
music was loud. The beat was infectious. In a line, the family danced in,
smiles so big and cheers so loud that it took over the whole place. As each
family member brought their gifts, everything from fruits and vegetables to
crates of soda and more, they danced, cheered and celebrated. In that moment, I
struggled to hold back my tears. I felt completely humbled and honored. True, I’m
a foreigner. I’m not from here. Yet, I have the dearest of friends that open
their culture and lives to me. They open up themselves and let me in. They
extend their love and friendship to me. They see all of my missteps and awkward
moments and guide me. They answer my millions of questions. They love me.
Georgina and I, the best of friends |
In that moment, I felt so honored to be a part of that
day, awkward dancing and all. What an honor to stand by two of my dear friends
at such a big day in their lives. What an absolute honor to not only live in
Uganda but have dear friends who are willing to share their dance moves to a
crazy white girl.
A most beautiful bride and friend |
I am seriously blessed.